Bhutan Trip : Informative

                                    Hello Dearie ... !!!

Welcome to this post of mine about my recent Bhutan trip with my friends in 4-days holiday time.

Why this post :

I am writing this blog because I was fed up of the incomplete oral information I got from others about this Bhutan trip. So I decided to have a well documented informative post full with my own Bhutan experiences for the folks who will be planning next for the same trip.

 Whom it may concern :

If you are planning a trip of Bhutan in 4-5 days holiday time then this blog is for you. It is written from the Indian residential perspective including the travel plan and the arrangements of the trip.
Even if you are not an Indian residential, you can get some idea about the inside of Bhutan and might accordingly plan your trip.

Indian part of our journey : 

If you are a group of seven or eight people, it would be more convenient in every aspect like lodging, booking vehicle for the whole trip etc. With my experience, a group of four will also do.
We made a plump plan just six days prior to our holidays and so as usual it was difficult to get the train tickets in such short time span. We were seven altogether but kudos to our Spartans Arka, Sudhanshu and Samiran who fought well and got atleast RAC tickets in Uttar Banga Express.
With this train one has to reach Falakata railway station. If not getting a direct train to Falakata, book it for New Jalpaiguri railway station and from there you can reach Falakata by another local train or by any other local traveling means.
By flight (affordability condition applied) one can directly arrive at Paro International Airport but in this case I don't know about the Bhutan entrance paper work formalities. (You can google it)
Here I would like to mention that there are several entry points to Bhutan but we had chosen the Phuntsholing entry point (for unknown reasons) which is nearby from Falakata railway station. Phuntsholing is 48 kms far from Falakata but don't worry, a lot of Jeeps and buses are available for traveling purpose.

We boarded a jeep from Falakata which dropped us at a place (I could not recall the name of it but doesn't matter) in 1 hr from where it took about 10-15 minutes by auto-rickshaw to reach Phuntsholing.

We reached there in the very late morning (nearly in afternoon) due to which we faced a liitle problem about booking an Indian car for the visit. What happens in Phuntsholing is if you want to book an Indian cab (which are cheaper than of Bhutanian cabs) for the whole trip of Bhutan  then this cab also has to get entry permission to Bhutan along with you  which takes time and is possible if you go around 9:00 AM. So try to reach Phuntsholing in morning time.

You would also get some public transport buses and taxis from Phuntsholing for Bhutan tour which will cost you around Rs 400/- per head but having your own transport is always cool for such tours.

Doings at Phuntsholing :

From any of the xerox center there, get an entry permit form, fill it with one your photograph and attach a xerox copy of your voter ID card or passport. Submit it to consulate office which is near to the petrol pump in Phuntsholing. Depending upon the crowd it will take around 1-2 hrs to get the entry permit. 

Also in the mean time, talk to Indian cab owners about your whole plan of Bhutan trip and book any one of them. They will also have to get the vehicle entry permit (which is not necessary for the Bhutani Cabs) which they can only get after your entry permit. We booked a seven sitter Bhutanee vehicle (since we could not get entry permission for an Indian vehicle because of our late arrival in morning) which costed us Rs. 12000/- for 4-day trip which might get cheaper if you book an Indian one. 

Also for Chelela peak in Paro, our driver has been asking for extra Rs. 2000/- but we settled it in Rs. 1500/- .  

You would not have to worry about the currency problem. All Indian currencies are acceptable everywhere in Bhutan except the coins.

Great fun started now !!! 

Paro City (Bhutan) :

After getting the permit in the evening, we started our journey for Paro in Bhutan. If you have only 4 days in your hand, I can confidently say that Paro is the best place to start with as it is nothing less than heaven on the earth.
 In the way to Paro from Phuntsholing, our car passed through the clouds in the mountains and the weather was very cold. It was really an awesome experience (provided you have never been to such places before).

Here we were deceived by the information provided  by our own mate Arka about the weather but thanks to Sudhanshu for bringing that warm jacket with him.

I would strongly recommend you to carry full winter cloths with you.

Anyway, I do not have words to explain the scenery we came across in the way to Paro. You will also pass through Bhutan university in this journey. We had taken 2-3 small breaks, had tea and snaks in that cold weather during this journey as it was a long one.
We spent our first night in a hotel of Paro city which was booked by our driver saheb. The drivers or owners of the cabs usually have their contacts in Bhutanees hotels. So you should talk to them on the first place while entering to Bhutan about your accommodation arrangement. You can also book rooms online in advance but in my opinion it will cost you more. We booked two bedrooms of two beds in Rs 2400/-  with the help our driver who happened to be a nice man.

He told me that the rooms were a little costly because of the peak season and also some Paro festival was going on. We went into the month of April. When we asked him about the peak seasons, he took name of all months in a year. So I really do not have any idea about the off-peak season there.

Chele la Pass (Paro City) :

Next morning we woke up and came out of hotel to see the nearby market. Let me tell you again the sight from Paro market of the mountains partially covered with clouds partially with sunlight and the blue sky. Uffff !!! you can't imagine until you see it by yourself.

We then headed for the Chele la pass. It has 3810 m height and because of dense chilled clouds, visibility was very low. Be careful of the slipperiness while climbing up to the mountains peak. Also oxygen deficiency in the air makes it more difficult to even walk faster and breath properly. We also found a lot huge huge flags which meant, it was a sacred place for worship Gods. We also found snow up there in mountains to play with.

Now if you got lucky just like us, wind will make the nearby environment cloud free for some time and then in the brighter sunlight valleys in the bottom of this peak look splendid.

After all this we headed to saw the Taktsang monastery also know as Tiger's nest. We only saw the tracking spot from bottom of the hill and planned the actual tracking for the next day as it was already around 04:30 PM.

Taktsang Monastery (Tiger's nest) (Paro city):

Next day morning after refreshing ourself with the breakfast and a tight sleep in the past night, we headed for the tracking purpose around 09:30 AM.

It was a nice adventurous high tracking destination up in the mountains. We tracked all the way to the temple which was really a difficult task and haul water bottles and some food items with us made it harder. The higher we tracked, the more our mates lost their temper (it was only the physical fatigue which mattered) but while coming down from the hill everyone was in a pleasant mood. 

For senior citizens, minors and ladies hinny ride facility for tracking purpose was also available.

Here in the temple some sort of sacred water was available which Bhutanee people drink for some reasons which is unknown to me.

Thimphu (The capital):

Then next we went directly to Thimphu , capital of Bhutan in the same evening after finishing tracking at Taktsang and stayed there in a hotel which costed us approximately the same as in Paro.  

Next day morning we first visited a Bauddh temple and then went to place where a big statue of Buddha was established which was worth seeing.

After that we visited Bhutan Takin Preserve which was situated in Motithang. Takin is the national animal of Bhutan which we came to see in this preserve.

 We saw deer and barking deer also in the preserve by a very close distance.

Then we headed for the museum and in the way was a monastery which we visited and saw thoroughly from inside. There is nothing much to see in the museum if you belong to rural part of India. 

In the end of Thimphu visit, we bought some souvenir from a handicraft shop which were very costly in real sense.

Returning Journey :  

We started our return journey after having lunch in Thimphu and in the way we saw the place where the king of Bhutan lives.

We reached Phuntsholing in the night around 07:30 PM, submitted our entry permit there, boarded an advanced hired four wheeler and came to Falakata in the night. Our train was on the next day and so we booked two rooms in a hotel.
Next day since we had our train in the evening from New Jalpaiguri, some friends went to saw nearby places in Falakata but I came to New Jalpaiguri by train and explored the whole city which really has a nice and broad market.

I have not written a single word about the food and cost of items there in Bhutan because it is better this way. I will only suggest you to keep some digestive medicine with you.

In last, I can conclude this post by saying that memories of the place may fade with time but the motherhood of nature will always be refreshing for us till we live here on mother earth.

For more pictures of Bhutan goto Bhutan album.

Have questions ? Ask without hesitation. I would be happy answering them.

प्रकृति की गोद से ...

हवाओं की ये खुसर-फुसर ये गुफ्तगू , बहारों की ये शोख़-अदा ये जुस्तजू ,
भौरों का ये क्रंद-विनय ये आरजू , झरनों की ये कल छल-छल ऐ आब तू ,
मेघों का जो रंग-साज यौवन-खुशबू , पौधों का वो वर्ण-हरित श्रृंगार तू ,
दूर तलक फैला वसुधा का आँगन-भू , ह्रदय कहे तेरे आँचल को चूम लूं ...

फिर से

होती नहीं बर्दाश्त तेरे नज़रों की तपिश मुझसे, जलाती है ये अरमान जो हैं मेरे दिल में बसे,
रोती हुई ये ऋतु भी अब फरियादी है तुझसे, बुझा न पायी ये शोले जो हैं मेरे दिल में जले ...

अमर नीरज साहब

बादल बिजली चन्दन पानी जैसा अपना प्यार,
लेना होगा जनम हमें कई कई बार ...

बात बहुत तेजी से फैली है कि 70 के दशक की हिंदी फिल्म प्रेम पुजारी का ये गाना लिखने वाले नीरज साहब को स्वर्ग से धरती पर लाने की तैयारी चल रही है। पता करने पर पता चला कि बादल,बिजली,चन्दन और पानी उनको वापस धरती पर लाने की तैयारी में लगे हैं। 

इन पंक्तियों को लिखते वक़्त नीरज साहब की आँखों में उस समय के प्रेम का एक अलग दृश्य था। उन्हें लगा होगा कि ये प्रेम हमेशा से ही पवित्र था और रहेगा लेकिन शायद ये न सोचा हो कि ये पंक्तियाँ हर युग में प्रेम के हर प्रारूप का साथ निभाएंगी और उन्हें इतिहास के पन्नो में अमर बनायेंगी।

नीरज साहब के ज़माने के बादलों की और बात थी। सावन के पहले से ही हल्की बारिश की बूँदें मानो लोगों को सावन की झमाझम बारिश में भीगने का न्योता दे रहीं हो। भाद्रपद की उमस भरी दोपहरी के बाद शाम को बारिश से ठंडी हुई हवा के क्या कहने थे। पर अब तो लोग बादलों की ओर टकटकी लगाये बैठे रहते हैं जैसे उन से पूछ रहे हों की तुममे से कौन से बादल का "हाल्ट" यहाँ पर है। बादल पहले की तरह विश्वशनीय नहीं रह गए जो कवि घाघ के नियमों को मानते हों. अब तो ये भी अनुमान नहीं लगा सकते की एक ही रंग के बादलों में से कौन सा बरसेगा। किसानों में वही प्रसन्न हैं जिनके पास "ट्यूबेल" हैं अर्थात कृत्रिम बादल। धनाड्यों के घर में "शावर" कृत्रिम बदल की अनुभूति करते हैं।

बिजली की बात पर नीरज साहब से मैं कुछ असहमत हूँ। इनके ज़माने में भी बिजली की व्यवस्था कोई इतनी अच्छी नहीं थी। बिजली का कोई निर्धारित समय नहीं था और वो आज भी नहीं है अलबत्ता इनके ज़माने में जब बिजली आती थी तो ये निश्चित था की कुछ देर रहेगी जैसे कह रही हो की जब मैं साथ देती हूँ तो कमर तोड़ के। पर आज बिजली की हालत देखता हूँ तो अपनी तरफ की "डांस पार्टी" में नाचने वाली बिजली बाई की याद आती है जो पैसों के लिए कभी इनके तो कभी उनके पास जाकर ठुमके लगा आती है। स्पष्ट है बिजली की स्थिति भी। पैसे वालों के लिए "जेनेरेटर" सुविधा उपलब्ध है यानि कृत्रिम बिजली। 

चन्दन की बात से मुझे अपने बचपन का सरदर्द याद आता है जब सर पे चन्दन लगाया जाता था और उसकी ठंधक से सर दर्द में बहुत आराम मिलता था। नीरज साहब का भी शायद यही पर्याय रहा हो। 
परन्तु अब का चन्दन भुजंग के लिपटे रहने से विष-व्याप्त हो गया है। घर के बगल में एक सज्जन ने यही नुस्खा अपनाना चाहा सरदर्द में तो उनके सर पे छोटे-बड़े दाने निकल आये। पता चला कि  ये चन्दन नहीं कुछ और था। संपन्न के लिए "असली" चन्दन अभी भी उपलब्ध है। 


पानी की बात करना ही व्यर्थ है। नीरज साहब के ज़माने की निर्मल धार की जगह आज के मल-धार ने ले ली है। और धार क्या ? धार भी अब कहाँ देखने को मिलती है और मिलती भी है तो बाढ़ ग्रस्त इलाकों में। मैं जनता हूँ की ये लेख पढ़ने वाला हर व्यक्ति पानी "फिल्टर" करकेपीता है। समर्थवान के लिए जल भी शुद्ध रूप में उपलब्ध है।

प्रेम का भी यही रूप है। जो समर्थवान है उसे प्रेम उपलब्ध है हर ज़माने में और यह बात इन चारों को समझ में आ गयी है और वे अपने प्रति हुए इस पक्षपात से दुखी हैं। 

सो ये चारों नीरज साहब से अप्रसन्न हैं और कहते हैं कि उन्हें धरती पर लाकर एक गाना लिखवायेंगे जिसमे प्रेम का उदहारण इन चारों को दिया जायेगा।

बूँदें ...

छम से करतीं आयें बूँदें ,
मेघ संदेश पहुंचाएं बूँदें ,
अम्बर अमृत बरसाएं बूँदें ,
धरा इत्र फैलाएं बूँदें ,
पावन प्रीत जगाएं बूँदें ,
गीत नए सिखलाएँ बूँदें ,
मधु-मदिरा पान कराएँ बूँदें ,
विचलित मन बहलायें बूँदें ,
बच्चों सा खेल दिखाएँ बूँदें ,
बचपन की याद कराएँ बूँदें ,
मन भावन  लोरियां गायें बूँदें ,   
माँ का स्मरण कराएँ बूँदें ,
कर्म-भान करवाएं बूँदें ,
जीने की राह दिखाएँ बूँदें ,
हसें और हंसलायें बूँदें ,
मिल चलना हमें सिखाएं बूँदें , .... जारी रहेगा 

उत्तर प्रदेश की वर्तमान स्थिति पर

चोरों का खेल रचाया है, संकट की काली छाया है;

समझ मेरे नहीं आया है, जो माया कि ये माया है;
पलटी अपनी जो काया है, मूर्ति जो लगवाया है ;
घर जिसने लूटवाया है, और बेच सभी कुछ खाया है;
इतना भय जो फैलाया है, सोचे उसने क्या पाया है !

अखिलेश वहां जो आया है, लक्ष्मी ने वाहन पाया है ;
सत्ता जिसने हथियाया है, लगता जिसको सब जाया है;
मुलायम की जिस पर छाया है, जो खुद कुछ नहीं कर पाया है;
जनता को जिसने बहलाया है, बिल्ले का स्वांग रचाया है !

"शिशिर" इतना ही कह पाया है, रक्षा करे वो जिसने तुझे बनाया है !

सुकून-ए-रूह....

जागतीं हैं जब आँखें हसीन यादों में तमाम रात, सुबहों का आलम भी हदें पार कर जाये ,
वास्ता है तुझे पाक-ए-मोहब्बत की मेरे मालिक, झलक भर मुझे महबूब का दीदार हो जाये...